In Sardinia, the second largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, there is still an archaic tradition that recalls the commemoration of Dionysus: God of ecstasy, ritual madness, wine and fertility.
Although, there is little literature documenting the origin, the tradition can be traced back to XIV-XIII B.C. The last century has seen this pastoral ritual mutate into a carnival, as it has passed down between generations of shepherds.
However, this carnival is not one of exuberance and colourful regalia but a celebration of death, rebirth, rain imploration and fertility.
The followers of Dionysus in fact tore up goats and young bulls to remember the death of the God who had been mauled by the Titans. The capture and death of Dionysus is represented by the capture and death of a substitute victim. This victim is generally presented in the form of goat, bull, deer or wild boar: all hypostases of Dionysus. The same bulls, goats and deers that evoke the masks of this surreal event.
Men blackened their faces with burnt cork or covered with a black mask, dressed in animal skin, full of bells or bones that can weight up to 30 kg. Some groups move in a sort of martial march while other simulate the madness of the goat fight. The rhythm of the drum, the dance, the wine enhance the anachronistic celebration.
Masks and costumes differ as they represent their respective village. Groups are composed of devoted men, both young and old. The rite of passage to belong, is to be a native of the village. As you walk through the streets, you can sense their strength in tribal solidarity and affiliation. In Samugheo, for instance, there is a giant graffiti showing S’Urtzu and Su’omadore that welcomes you.
“The Dionysus’ playground” has been photographed in the area of Samugheo and Ula Tirso during its carnival and includes the group of: Mamutzones Antigos from Samugheo, Bois Fui from Escalaplano, Su Bundhu from Orani, Urthos and Buttudos from Fonni, S’Urtzu and Sos Bardianos from Ula Tirso.
